(originally posted here on i-to-i's Chalkboard forum.)
It's a balmy 35 degrees outside, and I'm desperately trying not to move too much, with my air-con on full blast. Despite the heat, it's pretty grey outside, as the heavens are about to open for our regular, afternoon monsoon. And even from inside, I can hear the tooting of motorbike horns.
You may or may not know that pretty much everyone in Vietnam has a motorbike. And I'm really not exaggerating! It's even more so the case in Saigon, which is already a sprawling, busy metropolis full of bicycles, street-vendors, coaches and the occasional car. The motorbikes weave in and out of this colourful streetlife, carrying everything from crates of live chickens, to a whole tree (I really saw this!).
As you can imagine, this makes crossing the road no mean feat! When I first arrived in Saigon, I was both terrified and awed by the traffic. And I knew that crossing a road on my own for the first time would feel like a major achievement. There are zebra crossings in Saigon, but nobody really pays them any attention. There are also traffic lights (rarely looked at) and clear pedestrian areas, like the pavement (ignored). Here, it seems, the motorbike is the law.
When you first pluck up the courage to edge to the side of a road, it can seem as if there is no way across - I imagine it's similar to how they may have felt before Moses parted the sea. But you just have to get to the other side, for a bahn mi, or a museum, or just because your friends are there. And so you just have to go with it.
I find the best way is to wait for a slight gap in traffic - this may be just a few seconds - and step out, sort of wandering slowly into the road. Slow and steady is the way to go, so that motorbike riders can both see you, and have the opportunity to weave around you. Cars and taxis, however, won't be so easy to manouvre, and you might find yourself narrowly avoiding being clipped by them. Just be aware of your surroundings, keep one eye on the goal, and go for it!
A few other words of advice:
- Handbag stealing: It does happen! Make sure you bring a shoulder bag with you, that you can wear across your whole body, and try to have it on your side that's facing away from the road. And girls, I know it seems annoying (especially if it ruins your outfit), but it's practical, safe, and much better than being dragged along the ground by a wannabe thief on a motorbike (which did happen to a friend of mine - she was okay, a scraped knee and ripped leggings was the only damage). Please, please be careful!
- Don't drink the tap water: Seriously. Don't! Bottled water is really cheap, so don't take the risk. Also, when getting drinks out and about, only accept ice if you are sure it's made from bottled water (most cafes and bars will do this, but watch out for street vendors). The tap water here can make you really poorly, and you definitely don't want that when trying to teach kids!
- Stares: In central Saigon (District 1), you won't get stared at so much. But be prepared for when you get to your placement! Even though I'm placed in Saigon, I'm 45 minutes from the centre. Here, people stare at us when we walk down the street, and we have been followed around the supermarket by schoolkids. Don't take it offensively. The Vietnamese are a curious, friendly people. Most likely they just want to say hello, and maybe practice their English on you. Give them a wave and a smile. They'll love it!
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